We decided to sleep in – we went for breakfast around 9. Nice view over the beach with high waves again. We ordered the continental breakfast which was very well promoted on the menu. This lead to high expectations in Johan. It was a bit disappointing when we waited to start eating until the ‘confiture’ arrived – there was no ‘confiture’ and we had to eat bread with butter. Imagine Johan eating bread with butter. He ran up to the room and took the 850-gram jar of peanut butter and the Nutella and explained to the waitress that this is what we put on our bread CON-FI-TURE (!). She responded that bread made her sick in the morning anyway…


After breakfast, we went for a swim in the sea with three local acrobat kids which we decide to throw in the sea; all of a sudden the number multiplied by 5 and we were throwing little airplane kids into the sea for the next 20 minutes.

Later, we had to go into Lomé town to try to arrange tires for our bikes at Toni Togo, a place highly recommended on the iOverlander app. This official KTM dealer is the place to be for big adventure bikes and they supposedly have a lot of tires in stock. The expression on the face of the manager said it all when we rolled through the gate: our bikes were a little bit too big and he never had our size in stock. Oil perhaps? Nope. Toni Togo is therefore useless for people traveling on the 1200 GS bikes. If you have a small bike you’re fine.


After that, we went to a supermarket and bought lunch to eat back at the hotel. Yoghurt with cereal. At the hotel, we met several other overlanders. A Swiss couple and an American dude driving two Fiat Pandas the same route as us, and a British dude Freddie, riding a Honda Transalp. They informed us about the border between Nigeria and Cameroon, it was closed. Unpassable apparently; the Anglophone part of Cameroon is trying to separate from the French part of Cameroon and no news is brought to the outside world about it. They were in contact with another group of travelers sponsored by Netflix who are traveling the west coast of Africa surfing un-known spots. They are already stuck at the Cameroon border for 2 weeks now ( Before we knew it we were added to a WhatsApp group called ‘Stuck in Togo’.


Johan went back to Lomé town to pick up our Benin visas. And after that, we went for dinner. We wanted to discuss options for dinner: ship our bikes to Gabon, from Lomé, or Cotonou in Benin? Drive to Nigeria and hope for the best? We did not get a chance to discuss anything. A Togolese guy, Eric, supposedly a cardiologist in Washington we later understood he was the ‘cardiologue de la bière’. He tried to take us to his house but after 10 minutes walking in the dark – what should have been a 5-minute walk in total – we decided to turn around and go to bed, which wasn’t Eric’s idea of a good night out…


  1. Ik ben benieuwd hoe de ontsnapping uit Togo georganiseerd gaat worden. Een soort mega-escaperoom. Jullie zijn er vindingrijk genoeg voor

  2. Zo! Ik ben weer helemaal bij met lezen. Ga nu de foto’s bekijken.
    Behoorlijk griezelig, zo’n gebogen voorwiel paar dagen terug. Hou dat in de smiezen, ou ja, je merkt het snel genoeg aan je stuur maar liever niet bij 120 km in ‘t uur. Die banden zelf zullen wat te lijden hebben. De banden van deze twee kanjers ( J&J) misschien ook wel.
    En lang leve nútella en peanutbutter. Af en toe een koel bruisend biertje maakt ook veel goed.

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